Orecchiette alla Barese

A lot has changed in the last year and a half. I got a dog. I got a garden. And I got married! We both take care of the pup. The hubs takes care of the garden. And I take care of him – mostly by feeding him. It’s a great setup for me because I get to cook with fresh produce that I would inevitably kill if I was in charge of the garden. Farmer Ted is also constantly encouraging me with all the recipes I try. I know I’ve done good when he says, “I think this is my favorite thing you’ve made.” Even when he doesn’t say that, he always gives me a kiss and thanks me for making dinner. I’m a pretty lucky gal.

The garden is what brings me back to the blog. Right now we have broccoli growing. When I was thinking about what to make with broccoli, I thought about this recipe I learned in Italy. You may remember in my last post I said I was going to make all the remaining recipes from my Italian cooking class. Well, it may be taking me a while, but I still want to see that goal through! So let’s get back to it with this tasty pasta dish.

I have always loved this dish because it requires minimal work but has maximum flavor. As the recipe says, “This quick and easy preparation is a great favorite in the Italian South, especially in the olive-oil producing district around Bari, where the orecchiette are home made.” There are ten or less ingredients, most of which I always have handy. There are only two ingredients to chop. You only need two pots, and cleanup is easy.

Traditionally this recipe is used with broccoli rabe, also known as rapini, but I find it is difficult to find at regular grocery stores. Thankfully, the recipe says you can substitute regular broccoli, so the dish stays true to its roots. The New York Times also posted a similar dish using broccoli, so I feel further validated using it.

I took a few cues from the NYT recipe and from Smitten Kitchen’s broccoli rubble farro salad. Like the NYT recipe, I blanched the steamed broccoli and finely chopped it up. Like the farro salad, I used the broccoli stems too, peeling them first so they cook faster. I really like using both of these techniques for two reasons. First, finely chopping up the broccoli helped incorporate it more with the pasta, almost like a chunky sauce. Second, using the stems bulked up the veggie component and added a little crunch.

I made two more last minute modifications, which are optional but easy. The original recipe does not call for parmesan cheese, but let’s get real, isn’t pasta always better with cheese? I also added some lemon zest and a squeeze of lemon juice. You’ve got to have salt, acid, fat, and heat, right? Speaking of salt, you may notice there’s no salt added to the pasta. That’s because the anchovies do the trick! If you’re scared of anchovies, don’t be. There is no fishy flavor, just a wonderful umami taste that pulls everything together. If you’re anything like us, you’ll be lucky to have any leftovers!

Orecchiette alla Barese, serves 4-5

• 1 lb. orecchiette
• 2 large heads of broccoli
• 2 garlic cloves, minced
• 3 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil, plus more to taste
• 6 oil packed anchovy fillets
• 2 tablespoons capers
• 1/2 teaspoon dried oregano
• 1/2 teaspoon red pepper flakes
• Grated parmesan cheese (optional)
• Lemon zest and/or juice of half a lemon (optional)

Peel the broccoli stems. Cut the broccoli crowns from the stems. Slice the stems into 1/2 inch rounds. Bring 1 inch of lightly salted water to boil in a sauté pan. Add broccoli crowns and stems. Cook for 5 to 6 minutes or until tender. Using a slotted spoon, transfer broccoli to a bowl of ice water. Drain broccoli and blot on paper towels. Finely chop the crowns and stems.

Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil. Add orecchiette and cook until al dente (9 minutes or according to package directions).

While the pasta is cooking, empty and dry the sauté pan. Heat olive oil in the pan over medium-low heat. Gently sauté garlic until fragrant, careful not to burn it. Add anchovies and crush them in the oil with a wooden spoon. Mix in capers, oregano, and red pepper flakes. Stir in the chopped broccoli and sauté for 1 to 2 minutes over medium heat.

Reserve a cup of pasta water and drain the orecchiette. Immediately combine the orecchiette with the seasoned broccoli in the pan. Add 1/2 cup of pasta water and mix well, adding more for moisture if needed. Drizzle with olive oil. Serve at once, garnishing with freshly grated parmesan cheese, lemon zest, and/or lemon juice if desired.